Berat is two hours south of Tirana and it explains itself in one view. From the Gorica bank you look across the river at Mangalem: tiers of white Ottoman houses climbing the hillside, each with rows of large windows turned towards the sun, so many of them that the slope reads as glass rather than wall. Above both quarters sits a castle that is not a ruin but an inhabited walled village, with families, gardens, lanes and half a dozen Byzantine churches inside the walls.
What to see
The castle, inhabited, with churches, lanes, residents and viewpoints, up a steep cobbled climb.
The Onufri museum, inside the castle church, holding sixteenth century icons.
Mangalem, the white quarter with the windows, on the north bank.
Gorica, across the footbridge, quieter and with the view.
The ethnographic museum, in a restored merchant house, which is small and good.
The footbridge itself, which is the shortest walk between two very different quarters.
The castle, specifically
A walled hilltop quarter rather than a monument.
People living inside, in houses with gardens and washing lines.
Several Byzantine churches, some open, some not.
A long steep cobbled approach, which is the only way up on foot.
Viewpoints over both quarters and the river valley.
Respect for the fact that this is somebody’s street.
Practical notes
Two hours each way from Tirana by bus, furgon or car.
A steep cobbled climb to the castle; shoes with grip.
Cash for the museums and smaller places.
Summer is hot and the castle hill has little shade.
Parking is below the old quarters rather than in them.
Wine from the hills around Berat, which is one of the better Albanian regions.
Eating and drinking
Slow cooked lamb and veal, which the region does well.
Berat wine, from the surrounding hills, available everywhere in town.
Byrek and fli, from bakeries, which is breakfast.
Restaurants in Gorica, which are cheaper and quieter than in Mangalem.
Raki, offered constantly and stronger than it looks.
Coffee on the main boulevard in the new town, which is where Berat actually sits.
Where this fits in an Albania trip
One night, or a long day trip from Tirana, on the way south or north.
For the practical shape of a first Albanian trip, our beginner guide to Albania covers the ground.
For the other UNESCO Ottoman town, greyer and steeper, our Gjirokaster guide covers that visit.
And for putting all the historic sites in a sensible order, our Albania history route covers the itinerary.
The short version
Two hours from Tirana and worth a night rather than a day trip. Do the inhabited castle first thing in the morning while it is cool, the museums and the quarters in the middle of the day, and cross the footbridge to Gorica in the late afternoon, because that is the only hour when the thousand windows actually catch the light. Sleep in Gorica for the same reason. Wear shoes with grip for the cobbles, and drink the local wine.
