Ksamil is the picture that sold Albania. Four small islands sit a hundred metres or so offshore, the water between them is shallow and improbably clear, and in the early two thousands almost nobody outside the country had heard of the place. It is now the busiest beach destination in Albania, which is both the reason to go and the reason a lot of people leave disappointed in August. What it is not is a town: it is a beach with accommodation built around it, very fast, and it shows.
What is actually there
The islets, four of them, wadeable and swimmable in normal summer conditions.
A string of beaches, most with sunbeds, umbrellas and a bar behind them.
Very clear shallow water, which is the genuine attraction and lives up to the photographs.
Accommodation, in quantity, ranging from rooms above a restaurant to newer hotels.
Restaurants, mostly seafood, mostly aimed at visitors.
Not much else, and no old town, because there was not one.
The far south around it
Butrint, a few kilometres away, the best archaeological site in the country and UNESCO listed.
The Blue Eye spring, inland, on the road towards Gjirokaster.
Saranda, fifteen minutes north, for a promenade, transport and more restaurants.
Boat trips, along the coast to coves with no road access.
Corfu, visible across the strait, with a ferry from Saranda.
Coves north of Saranda, which are quieter than anything in Ksamil.

Practical notes
Sunbeds are rented everywhere and are inexpensive; free stretches of beach exist and are smaller.
Water shoes help, since much of the shore is coarse shingle.
Shade is scarce beyond the rented umbrellas.
Cash for beach bars and small boats.
Parking is the daily problem in high season.
Buses and furgons run to Saranda frequently and cheaply.
Being honest about it
August is very crowded and the access road congests.
Development has been rapid and some of it is unfinished.
Prices are higher than the Albanian norm because the market allows it.
The islands are busy too, in high season.
Litter on the busier beaches at the end of a hot day.
September fixes most of the above.
Where this fits in an Albania trip
Three to five nights in the far south, whether you sleep here or in Saranda.
For the town fifteen minutes north and its districts, our guide to where to stay in Saranda covers the options.
For the direct comparison between the two, our Saranda or Ksamil guide covers the decision.
And for the version of this coast built around two people and a sunset, our romantic Albania guide covers where to go.

The short version
Ksamil has the best swimming water in Albania and is a beach with accommodation rather than a town. Come in June or September rather than August, when it is the busiest place in the country. Sleep in Saranda and commute the fifteen minutes unless you have small children or the beach is the whole holiday. Book early and check the actual walk to the water rather than the photograph. Add Butrint and the Blue Eye, which are both close and both better than another day on a sunbed.
