Albania is one of the better walking countries in Europe and one of the least managed. The Alps in the north are limestone, steep and genuinely wild, with marked routes between villages and very little else. The Llogara ridge above the Riviera puts you at a thousand metres looking down at the Ionian. There are gorges on the coast that end at beaches with no road. What there is not is a dense network of huts, signposts and rescue teams, and planning around that absence is the whole skill.
The routes worth doing
Theth to Valbona, over a pass of around eighteen hundred metres, six to eight hours, marked, and the classic.
The Valbona valley, gentler walking along the river with the peaks above.
Llogara national park, ridge walks in pine forest at a thousand metres above the coast.
The Gjipe gorge, on the Ionian coast, walking down a canyon to a beach with no road.
Mount Korab and the eastern peaks, for anybody who wants a summit rather than a pass.
The Vjosa valley and Permet, for lower level walking with thermal springs at the end.
How hard each one is
Theth to Valbona: a full mountain day, not technical, with a long climb and a long descent.
Valbona valley: easy to moderate, and the best walking for a non hiker.
Llogara ridge: moderate, exposed, and superb in spring and autumn.
Gjipe: short, steep in places, and a beach at the end.
The peaks: proper mountaineering days requiring experience or a guide.
All of them: hotter, drier and emptier of water sources than the photographs suggest.

Practical notes
Offline maps with the trail data, downloaded before you lose signal.
Water, more than you think, because sources dry up in late summer.
Boots rather than trainers above the villages.
Cash, for guesthouses, vans and everything else in the mountains.
Guesthouse luggage transfers, which exist between Theth and Valbona and are worth it.
Weather changes fast at altitude here, in every month.
Getting to the trailheads
Shkoder for the northern Alps, with vans to Theth in season.
The Koman ferry, which is a spectacular approach and a trip in its own right.
Bajram Curri for the Valbona end.
The coast road for Llogara and Gjipe, both of which start from a layby.
Permet for the Vjosa and the thermal springs.
Very little public transport to any actual trailhead, which favours a car or a transfer.
Where this fits in an Albania trip
Three or four days in the north, or single days off the coast road in the south.
For the region and how the valleys connect, our Albanian Alps guide covers the ground.
For the village most walks start from, our Theth guide covers the base.
And for choosing the month, which decides which of these routes is even open, our guide to the best time to visit Albania covers the year.

The short version
Walk Theth to Valbona if you do one thing, between late June and early October, starting early with a day sack and your bag sent round by road. Add the Valbona valley for an easy day, the Llogara ridge above the Riviera in spring or autumn, and the Gjipe gorge for a walk that ends on a beach. Download offline maps with the trail data, carry more water than you expect, tell your guesthouse your route, and check the altitude limit in your insurance before the pass.
