Half an hour inland from the southern Albanian coast, water comes out of the ground at a colour that photographs badly because nobody believes it. The Blue Eye is a karst spring: rain that fell on the mountains works down through limestone and rises here through a vertical shaft, cold, clear and under pressure, feeding a river that runs away through the trees. Divers have gone down a long way without reaching the bottom, which is the fact everybody repeats and which is genuinely true.

What is actually there

The spring itself, a deep shaft in the rock with the water rising through it.

A viewing platform over the eye, which is where the photograph comes from.

A short walk from the car park through trees along the river.

A cafe and picnic area beside the water.

Very cold water, year round, regardless of the air temperature.

Half an hour to an hour, which is the honest allocation.

How to fit it in

Between Saranda and Gjirokaster, which is where it physically is.

On a Butrint and Blue Eye day, which is the standard organised trip.

As a stop on the drive north from the Riviera towards Berat.

Mid morning, for the light in the shaft.

Not as a separate excursion, which is the mistake.

Not in cloud, because the colour depends entirely on the sun.

Visitors on the walkway beside the pool of the Blue Eye spring, Albania

Practical notes

A small entrance fee, in cash.

A rough final approach in places; check where you are allowed to drive.

Swimming rules have changed more than once; check on site.

The water is genuinely cold even in August.

Coach groups arrive from late morning onwards in high season.

Shoes rather than sandals, because the walkway and paths are uneven.

What to combine it with

Gjirokaster, forty minutes further inland, which is the natural pairing.

Butrint, back towards the coast, which is the best archaeological site in the country.

Saranda and Ksamil, for the beach half of the same few days.

The drive itself, over the pass towards the interior, which is beautiful.

Permet and the thermal springs, if you are heading further north east.

A picnic, because the site is set up for one.

Where this fits in an Albania trip

Half an hour, inside a day that was going inland anyway.

For the coast you are driving from, our guide to the Albanian Riviera covers the villages.

For the stone town it pairs with, our Gjirokaster guide covers the visit.

And for the shape of a whole southern loop, our southern Albania itinerary covers the route.

Clear turquoise water flowing over a shallow rocky bed at the Blue Eye, Albania

The short version

Go mid morning on a sunny day, because the colour depends entirely on direct light and an overcast visit is a dark pool in a wood. Allow half an hour to an hour rather than a half day. Fit it into the drive between the coast and Gjirokaster instead of making a separate trip out of it, and keep it flexible so you can swap it for Butrint if you wake up to cloud. Check the current swimming rules on site, and expect the water to be very cold whatever the month.